Musings and Observations as I clumsily follow the call of God on my life in Vietnam and beyond...
28 May 2010
An Announcement! (and recent happenings)
First of all, my deepest apologies to those of you who actually check this space occasionally for updates about my life here in Vietnam. Have no fear, I am still here and doing quite well. Time continues its steady, onward progression and my time here in Long Xuyen draws to a close as I write this last update. It's hard to believe that I leave the University on Tuesday, meet the Biblical Seminary IME group on Wednesday, and travel with them through Saigon, Long Xuyen, cross the Mekong into Phnom Penh, and wrap up our 11 days together with a brief exploration of Angkor Wat. Then I fly from Siem Reap to Saigon for one night before heading home to the States on 14 June. I'm looking forward to my two months at home and all that will happen. All I know for sure at this point is that I'll be taking my GRE's and spending a weekend in post-Christendom with my EMS classmates from the UK. Beyond that, quiet relaxation and time spent with family and friends await me... and I can't quite articulate how excited that makes me.
But, since it's been such a long time since I've updated, I'll give a brief re-cap of what's been happening here in the Delta:
1) As of last posting, my plans for next year were uncertain and I was feeling rather tense and unsettled by that reality. WELL... things have been finalized in a very satisfactory way (at least it appears that way). Starting in August, I'll return to Vietnam, more specifically Can Tho University. I wanted to remain in the Delta simply because I feel like I finally understand the culture, partially, and wasn't too keen on the idea of moving to an entirely new context for what I know would only be a year or so. Can Tho is older than AGU and therefore has a broader network of International partners. My role specifically will involve English language classes for Junior staff, writing assistance for Master's Students, application and test preparation for study abroad, and working to strengthen and create new international linkages for the university.
2) For those of you who don't follow my Facebook statuses, I just spent a week-ish in the UK for an EMS (Eastern Mennonite Seminary) class entitled "Struggle and Hope in PostChristendom. Although most of the group was stranded by the ashcloud from that Icelandic volcano, and the class got off to a late start, it was a good experience. While I'm still processing and figuring out what exactly it will mean for me in the future, it was nice to be engaged in academic discussions about faith, politics, and changing social realities. (I realize I'm a bit of a nerd, but I've learned to embrace it).
3) Since returning from the UK, I've been packing in preparation for the next three transitions. Tomorrow, I move the belongings that I will leave in Vietnam over the summer to Can Tho. I'll also see the campus and meet some more of the faculty that I'll be working with next fall. Like I said earlier, Tuesday I head to Saigon for two weeks with the Biblical students. Then it's home. Lots of transitions, not a lot of time. Good-byes have started and run pretty solid until I leave. For all my complaints, I know this has been a valuable experience and I'd be wrong to negate all of the positives for the challenges. I have worked with people who have demonstrated true dedication and willingness to embrace my unorthodox approach. I have lived with a multi-cultural, multi-generational community of volunteers and in them I have found support, a listening ear, and Friday evening drinking partners. I have taught over 100 students, who made up for their lack of English ability with a desire to learn. I have been blessed by invitations for meals, coffee, trips to the tailor, and countless other adventures. I have been well looked after when I was sick, and I am grateful. There was no preparing for this experience before I left 10 months ago, and if I'd tried, I would have probably talked myself out of coming in the first place.
As always, when I stand on the verge of something new, I feel a bittersweet longing for the familiar. It's safe to stay in one place, and even if there are exciting opportunities on the horizon, it's hard to take that initial step. Long Xuyen was a safe place to call 'home' but now it's time to move on. Whether Can Tho will be better or just different remains to be seen, but it's where I feel I'm being led. Who knows what lies in store after that, but that's alright. As I've just been reminded, while it's easy to get caught up in the future, my responsibility is to remain present. So... I guess I'm staying until I leave. And after that, I'm not quite sure.
01 March 2010
February 2010 Update
For as long as I can remember, I have found much resonance with journey metaphors. The idea of physically moving along the path of life makes the vastness of the human experience seem that much more manageable, something I often feel that I need. No matter what’s going on, there’s an aspect of the journey metaphor that is applicable; deserts, mountaintops, and deep valleys all have their respective places.
Most recently, I’ve been struck by the sheer danger inherent in the journey. To journey implies that one leaves behind the safe and familiar and heads out into the unknown. Now, I recognize that no one, even those who never venture physically beyond their front doors are still on a deeply profound journey of their own and I would never hold myself in judgment of their choices. But those, whose lives become a journey, in reality as well as in metaphor, must acknowledge and embrace the danger inherent in going out your door.
These thoughts and reflections on the dangers of the journey come at a point of ‘road-weariness’. Six months in to this particular leg of my journey, I have felt overwhelmed by dangers that have not, to this point, showed themselves. That is not to say; however, that the weeks since my last update have been without moments, even days of sheer enjoyment, because there most definitely were. Perhaps that is itself the danger of this journey; that in the span of a few days (or minutes, depending on one’s emotional state) it is possible to experience a refreshing oasis and scorching desert heat, or to be plunged from the highest mountain to the deepest valley. Once the initial excitement and new-ness of a place has worn off and a routine established, it’s easy to be lulled into a sense of security. After six months, I was pretty sure that the dangers of this stage of my journey were over and that I had done a pretty good job conquering them. I’d weathered storms, both physical and emotional. I’d come through deserts of loneliness. I’d adjusted to new foods, climate, and culture. As long as I could focus on the task at hand, things were going fairly well. But then my routine shifted, and suddenly I lost my way. It all started with a much anticipated visit from home. As part of my funding, I’m helping to coordinate a study tour in May with students from Biblical Seminary in Philly. And as preparation for that Steve Kriss and Miguel Lau came to Vietnam and Cambodia at the end of January. Although I’d been in Vietnam for almost six months at that point, I’d yet to venture to HCM City for anything more than a transit point on my way to DaLat. I’d spent a few days there three years ago on the EMU cross-cultural, but that was the extent of my experience with the city. So, off I went to the ‘big city’ and indeed I did feel a little like the poor country mouse that went to visit her rich city cousin. The day and a half in HCM City were full of luxuries and experiences that I hadn’t had for a long time, and some that I didn’t even realize that I’d been missing. We then travelled back to Long Xuyen for a few days, then on to Chau Doc and Phnom Penh. It was a whirlwind week, and one of the best I’ve had here simply because, for the first time, I was sharing the experience with people from home. (The duffel bag full of goodies from home didn’t hurt either ). Although I was still in Vietnam, it was an entirely different context than my routine and it felt great. Phnom Penh also proved to be an amazing experience. Upon returning to Long Xuyen on 3 February, I immediately began my extended TET holiday, which only proved to deepen my disorientation.
For those not familiar, TET is the first month of the lunar year and the most important holiday of the year for the Vietnamese. As a result, the university shuts down for two weeks as staff and students return to their hometowns to celebrate. Due to the fact that the country essentially shuts down for that time, the other volunteers used this time for much needed vacations, but since I had just returned and was told that it is a good idea to stick around during TET, I decided to stay at the University. Let me just say now, BAD IDEA! I had the worst week that I’ve had in all of my time here that first week of the TET holiday. Perhaps it wouldn’t have been so bad if I had not been coming off the high of travel and spending time away from the routine. What I realized during those very quiet and lonely days is that the shininess has worn off of my whole experience here and when I took a good hard look at what I’d accomplished in my time here, I couldn’t point to anything concrete. The idea that I’d failed weighed heavily on my heart and mind that week, and I gave myself permission to wallow in the sorrow and frustration that surrounded me.
Now that life has largely returned to ‘normal’, I am regaining perspective on my time here. The shine; however, is still gone and I have to face the fact that what I thought I’d be able to do is not possible here. I accept that this is not entirely a reflection on me; but that there are circumstances beyond my control. I can honestly say that I have given my best efforts and will continue to do so for as long as I’m here, but I no longer labor under the illusion that this work will reap the harvest that I had initially hoped for. Given that I still believe in the IC3 project and the importance of its lessons for a globalizing world, I am beginning to weigh potential options for the 2010-11 school year. The bulk of those options will keep me in Vietnam or at least SE Asia just as I had planned originally. But there is the off chance that my journey in SE Asia will be shorter than imagined and I may find myself in a totally new context or back at home earlier than anticipated. All that remains to be seen.
On this journey, one thing I know I’m learning is that sometimes the map you leave with proves to be inadequate, and you have to chart a new course to get where you want to go. So, as I work at discerning that new path, I invite your prayers and encouragement. I know that I do not journey alone and that I am indeed surrounded by a great cloud of witnesses.
04 January 2010
January 2010 Update
After a three month absence from the Blogosphere due to various reasons, I’m back! I’d say it was one of my New Years’ resolutions, but I don’t do those since I inevitably break them about three weeks into January. Instead, I feel like I’ve been selfishly hoarding this experience and it’s time that I started sharing it with those of you at home who have made it possible for me to be here in the first place.
1. Thanksgiving in Vietnam: I know I mentioned it in my most recent update, but Thanksgiving in Vietnam proved to be both a challenge and a blessing, although more of the former. The blessing came in the form of the 20 or so students and fellow volunteers that joined us for dinner. It was rewarding to see that the hours spend in the kitchen in 90 degree heat were not in vain as everyone ate with gusto. But, all the effort to make it feel like Thanksgiving at home only served to remind me how far short my efforts were going to fall. So, important lesson learned: It is better to make the best with what you have than to try to recreate something only to disappoint yourself with the results.
2. Phu Quoc Island: To celebrate the end of the first semester and to recuperate adequately for the start of the second, a fellow volunteer and I traveled to Phu Quoc Island for five days. While not all that far from An Giang, it took us 8 hours to get to the Island. Tropical breezes, the calm waters of the Gulf of Thailand, and a bungalow with a thatched roof and a hammock made the perfect backdrop for our vacation. The beach was just steps away from the bungalow and the weather was gorgeous. It was an utterly self-indulgent vacation where I did nothing but swim, sleep, read, and eat.
3. Final Exams: Never before have I been on the ‘teacher’ side of final exams and it was quite an eye-opening experience. If nothing else, the experience was an instructive look at the Vietnamese educational bureaucracy, and it is not a pretty sight. Test creating, proctoring and grading is an oppressive and soul-draining process that strips both students and teachers from any motivation. The Vietnamese education system has long valued rote memorization and that is how students are tested, by reciting exactly what they were taught during the semester. The pressure is intense, yet there is little or no critical thinking or analysis of what has been taught. Likewise, the teachers despite claiming to be shifting to ‘student-centered learning’ are reluctant to embrace new methods of teaching or testing. It’s been frustrating to observe this and know that there’s no way I can change it.
4. Christmas in Long Xuyen: Given the frustration I experienced trying to make Thanksgiving feel like it does at home, I approached Christmas with no small amount of trepidation. But, it actually turned out to be a very enjoyable time. The University went to great lengths to ensure we volunteers had a good Christmas. The celebrations began on December 23 with the University sponsored party that included karaoke with the ‘bigwigs’ from many of the departments and thoughtful gifts. Christmas Eve meant dinner and a river cruise with the volunteers and assorted guests as well as an impromptu gathering of foreigners at the local watering-hole. Christmas Day was a pretty quiet day during which I talked to my family and attended Mass in the afternoon. The day concluded with wine and cheese and conversation with the Aussies, Joan, Rafaella, and me. While nothing like the Christmas’s at home, this felt right and good and I realized that it’s much easier to embrace the new setting for a celebration than it is to transplant unrealistic expectations from home.
5. New Year’s in Dalat: One of the adult students in my writing class invited a fellow volunteer and one of the staff members to spend a long weekend with her family in Dalat. Separately, another friend who manages one of the volunteer agencies here had planned to spend New Years in Dalat with her volunteer and invited me to join them. So, after a 13 hour bus ride with a brief stop in Saigon, I arrived in Dalat. My Lonely Planet Guide refers to Dalat as “bizarro Vietnam” and it’s completely correct. In the central highlands, Dalat is well known for its vineyards, strawberries and artichokes. It is also home to an annual flower festival that boasts some spectacular displays and draws insanely large crowds. While there, we visited and had lunch with monks at a Buddhist pagoda, paddled swan boats on the lake, toured the flower gardens, gazed at the city skyline from atop the highest hotel’s rooftop coffee shop, ate incredible food, got sunburned while hiking, drank real (non-UHT) milk, and rode motorbikes through countryside that looked like it could have been anywhere in Europe. It was an incredibly busy few days, but totally worth it for the change of pace and temperature from here in the delta. I’ve already made plans to return in April because Linh (the student who invited us) has a nine-year old daughter and our birthdays are only two days apart, so we’re going to have a joint party.
So, that’s a brief recap of life here in the past few months. It’s hard to believe that as I write this I’ve been here nearly five months, yet it is starting to feel more like home each day. There’s a rhythm and routine to the days and weeks. But there are also unexpected moments of challenge and joy each and every day. Sometimes I catch my breath as the reality of what I’m doing hits me once again and I am in awe of the providence that has led me to this place at this time. I know, in spite of the challenges, this is exactly where I am supposed to be and I’m so thankful for those who pushed me to embrace this opportunity and make it a reality. I acknowledge that without the support and encouragement of countless people from home I wouldn’t be here, or would have turned back long ago. Therefore, I just want to say once again, Thanks!
Blessings to you all,
Rachel
03 October 2009
In the presence of my 'enemies' on the International Day of Non-Violence
There are too many thoughts running through my head at the moment and I feel an intense need to get them out and organized in some semi-coherent way. My internal dialogue has been going at light speed for the past several days as I’ve been reflecting on the experiences that planted the seed of my current sojourn in Vietnam and thoughts relating to the occasion of Gandhi’s birthday and International Day of Non-Violence have joined in the cacophony in my head. I’m not sure that I can make any sense out of them, but what follow are my attempts to do just that.
It’s hard to believe that the first inklings that a trip to Vietnam might be in my future started over three years ago, and at that point, it was alongside a much more anticipated possible trip to Iran. What intrigued me was the way the trip was framed as an opportunity to relate with ‘enemies past and present’. At that point, the drums of war were beating once again as it seemed my country had already set its sights on war with Iran, just as it had done in Afghanistan and Iraq. The hate-speech and misinformation was rampant and as a student of history, I could see several parallels between that moment and what I’d learned about the build up to the war in Vietnam. The study tour to these two countries promised an opportunity, no matter how small, to sit at the table with those who had been or are currently enemies of the country I call home. As our preparations continued, I became more excited about the prospect of humanizing those who seemed so distant and foreign to my realm of experience.
Flash forward three years. I’ve been to and returned from both Iran and Vietnam. I sat around tables and experienced humbling hospitality at the tables of ‘my enemies’. I toured the War Remnants museum with a Vietnamese teacher who lost half of her family in the war waged by my country. I sat at a table with Muslim scholars who knew my own theology better than I do. I drank countless cups of tea and coffee and spent hours in conversation. Naively, I assumed that these experiences were behind me as I settled into the routine of real life after graduation. But, whether through divine providence, serendipity, or just plain coincidence, I’ve once again found myself living in the land of a former enemy.
Now, several weeks into my two year sojourn in a country that is beginning to feel more and more like home, I am again reminded of the dire importance of meeting and relating with those whom we are told are the ‘evil other’. While that language is no longer used to describe the Vietnamese, except by those who still consider socialism/communism to be the work of evil in the world, the voices of dehumanization and isolation continue to rage against Iran. I sit in my room at the international guest house and I watch the BBC and read the Washington Post. Living, as I am in the very best example of American foreign policy gone horribly wrong, I can only pray that reason will prevail and the examples of the past will inform our present choices. If only those who made the decisions that bring life or death, dialogue or isolation, a new way forward or the continuation of old hatreds could live with those who will feel the effects of those decisions. If they could walk the streets of Hanoi or Tehran, if they could share a bowl of pho or plate of kebab, perhaps then there would be less talk of us and them, and more of we. I know that I’m drastically oversimplifying and that my mind cannot grasp the elements of realpolitik involved… but perhaps we need to see things more simply and look at the shared humanity that binds us together, rather than the political, ideological and religious differences that divide us.
As if the cacophony of these voices running through my head were not enough, they have been joined over the past day with thoughts of the International Day of Nonviolence, to celebrate and remember the birthday of Gandhi on October 2. In addition to the drums of international war between the US and Iran, wars continue to rage around the world. The human family is torn apart by strife and competition for scarce resources. Differences in religion, race, gender, political persuasion, sexual orientation, and worldview fan the flames of overt violence and more hidden forms such as prejudice, exploitation, and discrimination. Instead of working, as Gandhi sought to do, for the non-harm of all and the conquering power of ‘truth force’ we seek to establish an advantage for our position at the expense of those not quite as powerful. Proponents of nonviolence in the international arena are mocked and derided as weak and out of touch with reality while the voices of violence and triumphalism are welcomed with open arms. While I’m realistic enough to know that creating a day to commemorate the life of a person who inspired so many of the non-violent struggles for independence and human rights will not create a substantial difference, it has certainly provided the motivation for some reflection. So, I guess this all comes down to just that, this is simply my reflection on what would happen if on this day, people set aside their differences and sat in conversation with those whom they generally view as ‘other’. Maybe nothing would change and my dreams are simply the longings of a soul that cannot fathom where humanity will be if we continue on our current path of dehumanization and an all out competition to make sure ‘we’ come out on top. But, just maybe small changes could begin to take shape; maybe just the seeds of changes could find fertile ground as people reflect on the humanity that connects us.